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Rome’s Piazza Navona – An Introduction


by Jill Kammer

Rome thrives on outdoor life. Naturally, it is obvious that Rome has a lot of museums, restaurants as well as churches, theaters and many other kinds of indoor activates. But the places to see Rome really shine are the many piazzas.

“Piazza” can be translated to mean public square. But the piazzas of Rome are unique from other famous cities because they are genuine places for lovers of outdoor art to gather and enjoy such beauty together.

A wonderful example of such art is the Piazza Navona, where in 1651 one of the greatest fountains of the artist Bernini was built: the Fontana dei Fiumi or the “Fountain of the Four Rivers”. Bernini’s students helped construct the central obelisk that is proudly perched atop a rocky mass at the center of the fountain and surrounded by four huge sculptures. One of those sculptures, The Ganges, was created by Bernini’s student Claude Poussin who himself became one of the most famous artists of his time.

The Fountain of the Four Rivers is a classic Roman fountain that seems alive with a rich diversity of life from a cactus to palm trees to sea monsters and dozens of wonderful pieces all mixed together artfully around the unifying column in the middle.

The story goes that to raise the funds for this expensive fountain, taxes were actually placed on bread which infuriated the citizens of Rome, from the poorest to the most wealthy. That bit of history now is a fun part of the background of the fountain to discuss over a relaxing cup of coffee as you watch the busy city go by.

You only need to cross the piazza to find the mighty sea god Triton riding a powerful dolphin in the Fountain of the Moor. This is an ideal location to watch the locals and tourists wander by or just bask in the Roman sun while you discuss where you will visit next. You will have a diverse selection of things to do in addition to taking in one of Rome’s delightful outdoor fountains.

Along the rows of cafe’s, restaurants and shops in the piazza, you will find dozens of stalls where merchants offer their wares and services. Here you can stop and have your portrait skilfully sketched by the many artists who populate this public gathering place.

At night the piazza explodes with activity until the sun comes up, as natives and locals mix with artists, mimes, merchants and beggars, all crowding the oval plaza together. The piazza actually stands on the site of an ancient circus, which is not a place where animal acts come to perform. Instead a Roman “circus” is a public square where many roads come to one meeting place.

Don’t miss out on a delightful Tartufo from Tre Scalini. Or for a great story to tell, go to Caffe della Pace, the oldest extant bar in the city. What a wonderful place to soak up some atmosphere and enjoy a Roman delicacy like a Campari. Afterwards, take in the night air as you stroll to the Church of Sant’Anese for mass or confession, only to return later to admire those famous Bernini fountains just a short walk away.

The sea creature theme of the piazza’s design continues at the Fontana dei Calderai or the Fountain of the Coppersmiths. But locals often call it the Fountain of Neptune because it is alive with sea creatures like sea horses, sea nymphs (known as Nereids) and dolphins witnessing a classic battle between Neptune and an octopus. The beautiful rose marble that was used to make this popular fountain is the same stone that was used for the doorjambs at St. Peter’s.

From your time at the Fountain of the Coppersmiths, it is a short walk to hear some great classical music at the Piazza Sant’Eustachio that lies between Navona and the Pantheon. Or you can easily catch a quick bus to see the Pantheon if your schedule takes you there next.

However your day is organized, don’t miss out on enjoying one of the most famous public squares in Rome. Enjoy the fun and beauty even if that public square is in fact round.

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